3 Weeks in Tuscany – part 1 (wine in Cortona)

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Every summer, I get the great opportunity to spend about 3 weeks in Italy for the Cortona Sessions for New Music. The bulk of our time is spent in Cortona (of Under the Tuscan Sun fame), with some short trips out into the Tuscan countryside for various wine-tastings and such. In past years, we’ve taken a week and visited other areas (Piemonte, Burgandy, Provence), but this year, we just stayed put and relished a few days of rest and relaxation in Cortona. This adventure always becomes a food and wine mega-trip for us! This post is just about the wine we enjoyed in Cortona. I will post again about some of the amazing treats from our trips to Montalcino and Montepucliano. Here’s a summary of the highlights.

THE WINE

Usually we go overboard with our wine budget. This year, life did not permit that, but we were still able to really enjoy a lot of amazing Tuscan treats – some old friends, some new. The list:

2007 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva (from magnum):  This wine is an old friend. Badia a Passignano was the first winery Mary and I visited in Italy back in 2006, and we enjoyed an amazing Tuscan lunch and tasted through Antinori’s entire premium lineup. We got engaged over a bottle 1991 Badia, and had a 3L bottle of the 1999 to celebrate my performances in the American Pianists Association a few years ago. The 2007 was opened with a bunch of friends at one of Cortona’s best restaurants Osteria del Teatro to celebrate our 5th wedding anniversary. The wine was a bit closed, but as the food began coming, it opened up to reveal some lovely flavors of chocolate, soft leather, and cherries. Its bouquet kept growing throughout the meal, with aromas of herbs, subtle spice notes, and a hint of tobacco. The wine is still pretty immature and will improve a lot over the next few years. I’m always impressed by Badia’s ability to age. It is a tremendous 100% Sangiovese Chianti that will always be special to me.

2011 Valdicava Rosso di Montalcino:  The 2011 Valdicava Rosso is a very interesting and special wine. Valdicava elected not to produce any Brunello from the 2011 vintage and instead, put all of their brunello grapes (including their riserva grapes) into the Rosso. In the states, the wine is already taking on mythic proportions and being sold for $40-$60 a bottle. In Cortona, it’s €17 – and it’s delicious. Still soft and inviting like a Rosso should be, it also possesses a depth, fullness and body that makes it so much more complex and compelling. It is probably the wine I most wish I’d have bought a few bottles of to bring home. I think it will be a unique Rosso with excellent aging potential.

2008 Antinori Pian’ delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino:  Again, back to Antinori. Forrest Pierce bought this to share with a table-full of folks who had just played a concert of his amazing music. Another wine with a lot of personal history, this bottle was great – not only for its quality, but for the company and place it was shared. We enjoyed it at our favorite Cortona restaurant, Pozzo Antico, the owners of which are simply the sweetest and kindest people ever. Pian’ delle Vigne is a modern brunello made extremely well. Very well-balanced between the light smokiness, chocolate, red fruit, and floral flavors. The 2008 is drinking very well already. Definitely not as much structure as the 2006 or 2007. For some at dinner, it was “the best wine I’ve ever had.” A really good brunello for sure!

2009 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico:  Casetll’in Villa is, without question, my favorite chianti classico. However, we had multiple bottles of the 2009 and it just came out flat. We’ve enjoyed the wine immensely at home, but somehow, it just didn’t sing. I never stop thinking about older vintages like the 2007, 2006, 2003, 1996, and of course, 1982 that I’ve enjoyed over the past few years. Perhaps the 2009 just needs a little time to settle, or perhaps we just got an off couple of bottles. Nevertheless, my love for this wine remains. I’ll be ordering more soon for the home cellar!

2009 San Felice Chianti Classico:  This wine was surprising, tasty, and very inexpensive! It was a frequent order at Pozzo Antico. Very approachable with a nice balance of body and acidity. Went great with pici al fumo and grilled sausage!

2008 & 2009 Poliziano Rosso di Montalcino:  We had this wine several times throughout our stay in Tuscany. It was a bit up and down. Sometimes, delicious and a great enhancer of the food; sometimes flat, watery, and light. In general, I would say it is a lovely wine, especially with pizza or lighter menu options. Lots of fruit flavors (cherry in particular). The 2009 is probably a better wine, but the ’08 was more consistent on this trip.

Mary’s Birthday Dinner – the Remix

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Fortunately, we dodged the tornados yesterday and were able to enjoy the fabulous dinner with friends that was supposed to happen last week on Mary’s actual birthday. 3 and a half hours of braising, two bottles of 1997 Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico, and a Templeton’s Manhattan later, success!

Braised Short Ribs 1997 Badia

Mary’s Birthday & Percristina

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If Mary and I had one last bottle of wine to share together, it would no doubt by Domenico Clerico’s Barolo Percristina. This wine holds a special place in our hearts as it was probably the first truly GREAT wine we enjoyed. We lucked into a bottle of the 2000 Percristina while living in Lawrence, KS and enjoyed it one evening at what was/is the best restaurant in town – Pachamama’s. The bouquet of soft lavender and tobacco, smooth body, and warm tastes of chocalate, hazelnuts, figs, and black pepper will permanently be etched in our memories. I seek out Percristina constantly. At auctions, on vacation stops into wine stores, any time I can. We had the incredible opportunity to visit the cellars of Domenico Clerico in 2010 during our post Cortona Sessions vacation. It was an unbelievable opportunity and we enjoyed tastes of the 2003 Percristina from bottle and a barrel sample of the lovely 2004 in addition to their entire line of wines. The wine is named after Domenico’s daughter Cristina who passed away at the age of 5. We literally stumbled upon the family crypt at a cemetery in Piedmont and saw her actual tomb. It was pretty incredible! So, when a special occasion (like a birthday) comes along, there is nothing better than opening a bottle and loving it.

This year, Mary’s birthday became a bit of an adventure. What was supposed to be an enjoyable day of jogging with the dogs, maybe some golf, and homemade pizzas, turned into a trip to the vet hospital to stitch up Sam who tried and failed at jumping through a barbed-wire fence. In addition, my pizzas were not exactly stellar as I did not have my favorite flour and the dough became too thin resulting in definite weirdness. Nevertheless, the bottle of 1999 Percristina rose to the challenge and saved us. Percristina is a wine that we could pick out in a heartbeat. Because of our history with it, Percristina is part of a small club of wines that in many ways outline our life together. Every time we open a bottle, we remember past special moments and simultaneously create a new one.

photo taken in the tasting room at Domenico Clericoat Domenico Clerico

Thoughts on Soldera

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Last December, a disgruntled employee emptied the gigantic botti in the cellars of Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera, emptying the entire production of Soldera’s 2007-2012 vintages. It was heartbreaking news to hear, and makes me feel so fortunate to have visited the estate in 2010 for what was the most incredible wine experience of my life. At that tasting, we had the opportunity to enjoy, from barrel, glasses of the 2004, 2005, and 2006 Soldera Brunelli. Simply put, the 2006 was the single best sip of wine I’ve had in my entire life. Touring the grounds, one is struck by an overwhelming feeling of how much the Soldera family respect the earth and all that comes from it. The rose garden, with over, 1,000 different species organically grown and groomed by Mrs. Soldera, is spectacular. The vineyard itself provides one of the world’s most perfect examples of organic wine production. While Soldera’s wines are not exactly in the budget of a pianist and teacher, I have had the wonderful opportunity to enjoy the 1996 Soldera with a fabulous meal in Chicago and am so excited to have been able to purchase a single bottle of the 2006 which Mary and I will enjoy at some special occasion in the future. I look forward to visiting Soldera again and to open that bottle and have all of the memories of that 2010 experience come rushing back.

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